I just got back from three days in the desert, and I have so many things to say. When I set out to go to Big Bend, I did a ton of research, but none of the articles I found really told me what I wanted to know.
So after three days in temperatures over 100, I have some advice for anyone wanted to take on Big Bend National Park.
PRE-PLANNING
My first suggestion is to not go in the summer like I did. It was honestly miserable for long periods of time, and we couldn’t hike as near as much as we wanted because it was too hot.
If you decide to go during a normal time, make sure you reserve your campground in advance! Campgrounds can be reserved during the busy season (the time where it isn’t so hot you could die).
Each night on the campgrounds costs $14.
I highly recommend the Chisos Basin Campground. It is surrounded by the mountains (so beautiful!), and it is cooler than all of the other campgrounds.
We spent our first night at the Rio Grande Campground, and it was so hot – reaching 117 degrees at one point! Chisos Basin was much cooler due to a higher elevation.
However, the Rio Grande Campground had showers and a laundry facility nearby. The main thing is to visit the Big Bend National Park website and look for any warnings during your visit!
PACKING
Along with the general things you bring on a camping trip, you will need a few special items for Big Bend National Park.
Your clothing choices are going to depend on the time of the year you go. You will need to make sure you look at the highs and lows in the weather for every day and be prepared for anything.
For example, when we saw the temperatures were going to be over 100 every day, we didn’t pack a rain jacket (and I almost didn’t pack my tent’s rain cover). But then, it rained on our last day!
It’s also important to pack lots of sunscreen and bug spray; I probably reapplied at least 3-4 times a day. Along with the bug spray, especially if you plan on camping, bring tons of baby wipes! Some days, that was our only way to shower.
I also ended up washing my hair in the sink, but in my defense, it was so hot!
Another thing you need for this trip is a Camelbak or water backpack. The hikes can be very strenuous and carrying water on your back is so much easier than the alternative.
When it comes to food, you cannot have a campfire on the ground. Some of the campgrounds have charcoal grills, but there was a ban on charcoal when we went. We bought a propane cooker, and honestly, it was the best decision ever!
We made hot dogs, breakfast burritos, grilled cheese, etc.! Be sure to bring soap too so you can wash your dishes – there are bears, and you will want to pick up after yourself.
If you decide to camp at Chisos Basin, the campgrounds are quite rocky. I recommend purchasing some type of padding to protect your back from the rocks.
Also, a battery-powered fan is very helpful when it is hot!
The next thing isn’t a necessity, but a hammock is so fun! You can only use them at Chisos Basin, but I took quite a few naps in them.
ROAD TRIP
We drove 8 hours to Big Bend, and if you are planning on driving too, be sure to get groceries on the way. There are a few stores with supplies at Big Bend, but it is definitely cheaper to stop at the Walmart in Fort Stockton!
We also ate our last non-camp meal there. We had a bad experience at the local Bush’s Chicken, but the Sonic nearby was a good choice for a quick bite before you continue your journey.
When you come into Big Bend, you will have to pay $30 per vehicle, and when you leave Big Bend, you will have to go through Border Control.
DAY ONE
The first day we arrived, we were extremely disappointed to find that Chisos Basin was full, so we made our way to the Rio Grande Village.
We also stopped by Panther Junction to pay for our vehicle and look at the diagram of Big Bend.
The Rio Grande Village is usually the default spot for RVs, but there is a campground with 100 sites. You can get WiFi at the visitors center near the showers, and the campgrounds are very grassy.
We picked a campsite with lots of shade, but we were still sweating! About 30 minutes before dusk, we walked the Rio Grande Village Nature Trail. It is a short trail, but the views are gorgeous!
We played a lot of Phase 10 and took showers – then went straight to bed. An 8-hour drive can really take the energy out of you.
WILDLIFE SIGHTINGS: Bunnies, Lizards, Roadrunners, Woodpeckers, Mountain Goats
DAY TWO
We started the next day by going on another short trail, the Hot Springs Trail. The drive to the Hot Springs Trail was a little scary, but there were abandoned homes everywhere. It was super pretty, even though it was way too hot to get in the springs.
We also stopped at the Dug Out Wells on our way to our new campsite.
Our day started very early because it was so hot, and we wanted to snag a spot at the Chisos Basin campground. We sweated all night, and really wanted to go where it was 10 degrees cooler!
Luckily, we found a great spot with a shaded grill area, and a great view of the mountains!
Again, it was too hot to do anything, so we ended up taking the drive to the Ghost Town of Terlingua. Terlingua is the home of two things – the original chili cookoff and the beer-drinking goat mayor, Clay Henry.
I couldn’t leave the Ghost Town without getting a hat dedicated to the beer-drinking goat. We also took in some air conditioning and ate at the High Sierra. We really wanted to go to the Starlight Theater, but it opened at 5 p.m., and it was 1 p.m. and 117 degrees.
We ended the day with more Phase 10, and we checked out the Chisos Basin store and another short trail, the Window View. The Chisos Basin store has ice cream and cold beverages!
You can also get WiFi!
On the way back to the campsite, we saw a bear and her cub! The bears are actually very small, and we found out the bear went straight through our campsite without disrupting anything.
WILDLIFE SIGHTINGS: Bunnies, Deer, Bears, Kangaroo Rat, Tiny Birds, Fox, Mockingbirds, Lizards
DAY THREE
Our third day we got to go on our first official hike, The Lost Mine Trail. This trail is just under 5 miles, and it is better to start in the early morning (more shade for the uphill climb).
The trail was pretty difficult towards the end, but the views were amazing (and going down was a breeze).
We also saw a deer, and a hiker in front of us came across a bear on our trail. Afterward, we headed to the Santa Elena Canyon on the Ross Maxwell Scenic Drive.
The drive was nice, mainly because we were in air conditioning, but when we arrived, it was so hot. I felt my skin sizzle the minute I left the car. Luckily, it was just a short walk to view the canyons.
We then headed back to the campsite and napped and read through the 100-degree heat. On day three, we ate lunch at the Chisos Basin Restaurant, and we played more Phase 10.
AND, we grabbed some wine and ice cream for our last day, and it stormed! It was so nice to cool off after three days of extreme heat.
WILDLIFE SIGHTINGS: Deer, Mockingbirds, Lizards
Are you planning a trip to Big Bend soon?
